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This is my Durabak project page. Here are the picture links for my Durabak project. PIC1 - PIC2 - PIC3 - PIC4 - Preparation PIC5 - PIC6 - PIC7 - PIC8 - PIC9 - PIC10 - Finished work The write-up I have "sprayed" my inner tub with Durabak product. CLICK HERE to see the spray gun and the regulator I used for the job. I like the way the Durabak looks and feels but anything feels and looks better than the way it was before. This is my first experience with coating like this especially coating the interior so I naturally want to say I like the way it came out. I was nervous at first when spraying the coating but I managed to get it covered well (2 coats). One gallon of Durabak will barely cover a Jeep tub I mean barely. I had nothing left in the can when I was done and still I needed more product for touch up areas where the gun couldn't get. Some of the areas are, under the lip around the door jams, and way under the dash. If you look closely at the pictures I think you can see where I sprayed Durabak around the outer area of the door jams to resist access abrasion.
You must mask everything that you don't
want Durabak on because this stuff will get on everything when sprayed. I used 1"
masking tape, a roll of 12" masking paper, and two 4'x12' paper drop cloths for the
hood and windshield. I also covered the wheels and tires with plastic.
Spraying is the only easy way to get that even "Liner" type texture even though Durabak has rougher texture than Diamond liner or Rhino liner. I dreaded the thought of rolling this stuff on my entire tub so I spent the extra money for an under-coating gun and a regulator. One gallon of Durabak barely coats a Jeep tub. It will coat the tub with two coats and not more. Buy an extra quart for the extra things that need coating like the transmission floor pan, roll bar, and steering wheel to firewall cover. I removed the heater, steering wheel column, and all interior goodies as you can see from the photos. I thought this would make a cleaner job out of the coating. I think the real test will be how the coating wears over time. It has been over a week now and the Durabak is still curing and getting harder. It took at least 3 or 4 days before I would dare to walk or work on the coating. If you go to the Durabak web page, you will see some examples of other rigs that have used Durabak. Click here to see the Cote-L web sight. They have information concerning the application and preparation of Durabak product.
After a few months the Durabak is starting to oxidize. It is a similar phenomenon to what other spray in liners, I have seen, will do over time. The only oxidation seems to be in areas that have been exposed to direct sunlight for extended periods of time. Strength and abrasion resistance seem to be as good as ever at least for now. I will update if anything changes. I have experienced some peeling on areas that were not sanded properly like the shifter and some bolt heads. 02/18/02 The Durabak fading problem does not seem to be getting any worse. COPYRIGHT © CHRIS C. AND CALL ENTERPRISES 1999-2000 THIS PAGE WAS UPDATED 08/20/2007 This site is about my Jeep. My goal is to help you to better your Jeep through my experience. Thanks for visiting..... Trailhed.com DISCLAIMER: Any usage or adaptation of any or all of the information provided here or on any or all of my web pages is purely at your own risk. You must take into account your own circumstances and vehicle requirements when attempting to utilize any or all of the information provided on any or all of my web pages. I assume no liability or responsibility for any results, damage, or unforeseen circumstances related in any way to the usage or adaptation of any or all of the aforementioned information. Enjoy |
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