CUSTOM tie rod and drag link.

Credits: This custom tie rod and drag link was achieved by gathering information from the Offroad.com B.B.S. and looking at other web sites that sell or have made a similar setup. 

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CJ steering linkage consists of a tie rod that goes from knuckle to knuckle, and a drag link that goes from the steering box to the passenger side knuckle.

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I started by rounding up all the steel and tools. 

After some research I put together a list of supplies and suppliers:

Stockcarproducts.com supplied the 1.5" per ft. tapered reamer 80.00 You will need a 1/2" drill motor for this reamer. You also have to use cutting oil for reaming to achieve smooth cutting and to eliminate chatter from the reamer. Do not skip the cutting oil or you may ruin your knuckles!

They also supplied two 11/16 left hand thread rod ends and two 11/16 right hand thread rod ends, total 44.00. These ends are much larger than the stock 5/8" CJ ends.

"Reno Salvage" supplied 6 feet of 1-1/8" D.O.M. tubing. 7.20 per ft. (1-1/8 OD x 5/8 ID.)

"B.T.C. Tools" supplied the custom made11/16"x18 left hand tap. 101.62

"Wolf Machine" supplied the 11/16"x18 right hand tap. 0.00

Total: 269.82 including tools.

The install.

The install began by removing the old tie rod and drag link, which were bent, broken, and twisted from a trail incident. new-6.jpg (22193 bytes)

 

 

The next step was to ream the existing holes in the knuckles. I reamed them from the top side to gain much needed steering linkage clearance. I understand that this will not work with spring over suspension because the rods will interfere with the springs. The reason for reaming the holes is to make the holes large enough, and the correct taper, for the new rod ends.

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The pitman arm is a 4" drop arm. I removed it and reamed it from the top also.

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The next step was to cut the D.O.M. (drawn over mandrel) tubing to length. I squared each freshly cut end with a file and proceeded to tap each tube to either 11/16 left hand or 11/16 right hand thread. 

Notes: While reaming the holes, stop reaming frequently to check the size of the hole. Use a new tie rod end to check for proper width and depth. Remember the tie rod end doesn't fit flat against the knuckle. It sits up a little to make room for the grease cup.

Make sure that you run the tap in as far as it will go so that you will have the option of  trimming off small pieces to get the length just right. I had to cut 1/2" off each end to obtain the proper length for adjustment.

I could not find 11/16" nuts anywhere so I bought 5/8" jam nuts. I ran a 5/8" drill bit through them to get the proper size, then tapped two of them 11/16 left hand and two of them 11/16 right hand. 

After reaming the knuckles and pitman arm, I installed the rod ends and found that the pins were a little long, which made the cotter pins useless. I placed two 9/16" SAE hard washers on each pin, then installed the castle nuts. The cotter pins now work perfectly. 

I installed the rod ends as follows: One left hand thread rod end and one right hand thread rod end per side. This allows the grease zerk, which are on the side of each rod end,  to clear each other. I also installed two jam nuts per rod end. This will allow the rod ends to be "double nutted", which locks them in place.

After the install was complete, I opted to safety wire the jam nuts to each other and to the DOM tubing. This just made me feel a little safer. 

I have flexed the suspension to it's maximum and nothing binds or otherwise hinders steering operation. I also like the tight feeling.

Here are some pictures of the finished product:

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This page updated 02/29/04


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THIS PAGE WAS UPDATED 02/29/2004 This site is about my Jeep. My goal is to help you to better your Jeep through my experience. Thanks for visiting..... Trailhed.com 

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