Parts search.

Next I started putting together the necessary parts to assemble what was to be my first ever-onboard dc welder. 

I bought 45’ of #2 welding cable, a ground clamp, an electrode holder, and two “Miller” plugs kits that will allow me to plug in the welding leads just like a regular stick welder.

Next came the "control" box. I found all of the necessary goodies at an electronics store that caters more to industrial applications, more so than a Radio Shack type store. I purchased an aluminum project box, a 0-150vdc analog meter, an 8-point terminal strip, an illuminated toggle switch, and various ring terminals and some dielectric grease for the brush assembly inside the alternator.

Rebuild.

I decided to freshen up the alternator that I was going to use for the welder by replacing the brushes and bearings. I found all the necessary parts at “Auto Diesel Electric” (a starter/alternator rebuild store)  here in Reno.

I then purchased two gallons of “Carb Dip” solution to clean the case halves and all the accompanying bolts and screws and two cans of electric motor cleaner for the brush assembly and stator.

After much cleaning and washing, the parts were ready to be reassembled. Once the alternator was back together with new brushes, bearings and a new layer of dielectric grease under the brush assembly, I proceeded to test it.

I "low tech" tested the unit by placing my battery charger on the exciter leads and spinning the drive pulley by hand. The magnetism was very strong which made the alternator very hard to turn and meant that the alternator should work properly. The output contact measured 4 volts on my multi-meter just by turning the alternator by hand.

NOTE: The alternators that I am using have the rectifier plate built in so the output voltage is rectified to DC voltage from AC voltage. An alternator by itself puts out only AC voltage and is not the best choice for welding purposes. You need to use DC voltage to get the best results.

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